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時裝設計 Fashion Design
時裝設計業經過多世紀的迅速發展，從裁縫的個別經營模式，為顧客提供度身訂做的服務，發展至大量生產的商業模式，並於生產中運用突破性的製衣技術。此外，時裝設計業亦與時尚潮流和娛樂事業結下不解之緣。高度商業化的時裝世界兼容並蓄，既保留了高級訂製服的精細工藝，容納揉合了創意設計和個人風格的設計師品牌，又開拓功能性衣物的研究和設計。時裝設計師可因應自己的才華和能力，投入不同類型的商業環境，發揮所長。 Over centuries of rapid development, the fashion design industry has evolved from a tailor's studio that provides tailoring services to individual clients, to a new business pattern, including using a mass production mode and breakthroughs in clothing technology. A close relationship also emerged between the fashion design industry and the entertainment industry. The highly commercialised fashion world has been able to maintain the refined technique of Haute Couture and designer brands which fuse creative designs with personal style, and promote functional research and clothing design for specific functions. Fashion designers may enter different business environments to exert their talents and abilities. |
顏色 Colour (p.21):
布料 Fabric (p.22):
莨紗綢製作過程 Production of Gambiered Canton Gauze
背心、7 分褲 Gilet, Capri Pants
材質Material: 莨紗綢 Gambiered Canton Gauze | 設計師品牌 Designer Brand: 碌祿 Loom Loop | 設計師 Designer: 何善恆 Polly HO
背心、7 分褲 Gilet, Capri Pants
材質Material: 莨紗綢 Gambiered Canton Gauze | 設計師品牌 Designer Brand: 碌祿 Loom Loop | 設計師 Designer: 何善恆 Polly HO
上圖是茛紗綢的製作過程。茛紗綢是嶺南地區的古老織造工藝，它是一種以天然物料薯莨汁液染色而成的真絲布料。真絲布料的原材料來自幼蠶結繭所吐的絲，經加工而成絲線，再以梭織或針織的紡織技術織成布料。桑蠶絲的質素，受幼蠶吐絲結繭的環境影響，尤其是溫度和濕度，而抽絲剝繭的過程則需要細緻的手藝。茛紗綢一般使用梭織真絲布中未經染色的小提花綢，這種布料一般表面織有細小的幾何圖案。茛紗綢的整個製作過程均需要人手處理，包括首先用薯莨汁液反覆浸染布匹，然後用河塘泥覆蓋，再暴曬於陽光之下。這過程需要良好的戶外條件，例如猛烈的陽光和未受污染的河塘泥。這些工序繁複，需時甚久。這種布料成份天然，製作過程環保。但是由於這種布料對坯布、染料和染色和加工技術的要求甚高，所以產量不多，在物以稀為貴的情況下，茛紗綢的價值比一般布料高。設計師選取這種布料製作的服裝，帶有雙重意義，那就是對罕有工藝的保護和環保理念的支持。
The above pictures shows how Gambiered Canton gauze is made. In the Lingnan area, local people make Gambiered Canton gauze in an ancient way, and dye the silk fabric with an extract of dioscorea cirrhosa. The raw material of the fabric is silk, which is spun into yarn, and the yarn is woven or knitted into the fabric. Silk quality is subject to the influence of environmental conditions, such as the environmental temperature and humidity, under which the silkworms create their cocoons. The silk reeling process needs a pair of skilful hands. The Gambiered Canton gauze usually adopts a specific woven silk fabric, an undyed dobby, with tiny geometric patterns on the surface. The whole process requires manual operation. The greige is first dip-dyed several times in dioscorea cirrhosa extract, then covered with pond sludge, and placed in the sun to dry. The complicated process needs favourable outdoor conditions, such as scorching sunshine and unpolluted pond sludge, and takes quite a long time. The fabric is made from natural materials and the process is environmentally friendly. As the requirement is fairly strict on the greige, dyestuff, dyeing and finishing technology, the output is rather low, and naturally, the rare Gambiered Canton gauze is more valuable than ordinary fabrics. The designer selects this fabric for two reasons, to protect this rare technique and to support an eco-friendly spirit in such production.
The above pictures shows how Gambiered Canton gauze is made. In the Lingnan area, local people make Gambiered Canton gauze in an ancient way, and dye the silk fabric with an extract of dioscorea cirrhosa. The raw material of the fabric is silk, which is spun into yarn, and the yarn is woven or knitted into the fabric. Silk quality is subject to the influence of environmental conditions, such as the environmental temperature and humidity, under which the silkworms create their cocoons. The silk reeling process needs a pair of skilful hands. The Gambiered Canton gauze usually adopts a specific woven silk fabric, an undyed dobby, with tiny geometric patterns on the surface. The whole process requires manual operation. The greige is first dip-dyed several times in dioscorea cirrhosa extract, then covered with pond sludge, and placed in the sun to dry. The complicated process needs favourable outdoor conditions, such as scorching sunshine and unpolluted pond sludge, and takes quite a long time. The fabric is made from natural materials and the process is environmentally friendly. As the requirement is fairly strict on the greige, dyestuff, dyeing and finishing technology, the output is rather low, and naturally, the rare Gambiered Canton gauze is more valuable than ordinary fabrics. The designer selects this fabric for two reasons, to protect this rare technique and to support an eco-friendly spirit in such production.
時裝的平面設計 Fashion Graphics (p.23):
設計師品牌 Designer Brand: INJURY | 設計師 Designer: 梁慧德 Eugene LEUNG
專利 / 版權 Patent / Copyright (p.27):
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品牌 Brand: La Baag Voyage | 設計師 Designer: 李國華 Richard LI
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The contents on the webpage “EDB Book” and its sub-links are informational and educational purposes only and contain copyrighted material, the use of which has mostly been specifically granted consent from the designers or brands or companies or photographers or image owners or agents, and do not constitute legal or other advice. We believe this constitutes a “fair use” of any such copyrighted material. The Association for Creative Education is not liable for any damages arising in the use of or inability to use this site or any material contained in it, or from any action or decision taken as a result of using the site.
This site offers links to other sites thereby enabling site visitors to leave this site and go directly the linked site. The Association for Creative Education is not responsible for the content of any linked site or any link in a linked site and/or any transmission received from any linked site. The links are provided to assist visitors to the Association for Creative Education’s site and the inclusion of a link does not imply that the Association for Creative Education endorses or has approved the linked site.